We are proud to present to you our most anticipated release ever for oud aficionados. Ouds’ olfactory nirvana! Your chance to finally smell kinam/ kyara smoke in a perfume. Without any other notes, not ordinary oud, not sinking grade oud, but pure kinam smell. Its not only kinam, but kinam subitism SMOKE!!
This marks our second release of the smoke series , after Dark Matter, which sold out in a few days, with only a handful of bottles left.
This second release is unlike any other kinam-called perfume to be released anywhere by any other brand at any point in time thanks to God. This is NOT a cultivated Kyara oil spray, and it is NOT a blend of “kinamic” oud oils, and it is NOT a marketing gimmick; here is the story.
Since we entered the market for perfumes, we came across a lot of the so called “kinam” and “kyara” and “kinamic” oils, none of which came even close to the kinam smoke subitism experience we made it our mission to study kinam and kyara at the molecular level so as to understand what it is exactly that people crave about Kyara or kinam. Our study was done extensively since 2019, up to the point where we reached this day and we could finally announce the results.
So, What constitutes Kynam, Kyara or Kinam? Be it green soil kynam from Vietnam, a wood thats almost a 1000$/ gram, Nha Trang kinam or Kyara from Shoyeido that is 2500$/ gram, or the almost extinct Samandari or Mandalee (For Indian Kinam Grade woods), the question is, why?, why is it so expensive?, the answer is simple, the smell of the smoke of these woods and their psychological and psychosomatic effects are the reasons. It is also obvious from our research that each region can produce kinam grade woods, unlike some claims that it can only be Chinese, or Vietnamese, etc.
The commonalities between different natural kinams lie in the abundance of a family of chemicals called chromones and the differences come from the type of chromones as well as the other molecules specific to each region.
Some people may have seen our post on Elixir Agarwood Science page on Instagram regarding plantation kinam and natural kinam and what makes the distintion between them, its simple and explained in the graph (available in the hyperlink mentioned above), simply put, plantation kinam share some chromones with natural kinam while it lacks a lot of the other molecules that constitute the heart and the top of natural kinam grade woods when burnt, meaning that the reference to plantation kinam as being kinam is only due to the sharing of one type of molecule with natural kinam, while missing the majority of the other molecules which constitute the full and wholesome natural kinam experience. This means that calling these plantation kinam kinam, is not the most accurate thing to do. And the reason we say it is not accurate is because normal oud woods too share some molecules with kinam woods, so why not call those semi kinam woods as well? It is also obvious there is a specific chemical fingerprint for any kinam-grade wood’s smoke.
Okay, now we get to the story of what we did and how we did it. So, it is a fact that no one ever distilled 100% kinam woods to produce agarwood oil. Shiseido and some other Japanese brands did some alcohol extracts from Kyara woods to use in their perfumes in negligible quantities. All the oils that are very high grade or were labelled as kinam just give a kinamic or a kyara vibe, but not because they were made from kinam woods exclusively, but because they share some molecules with kinam naturally and in a greater number than the inferior agarwood varieties.
Mathematically at a yield of 0.1-0.2% of a wood that is at least 700$/ grams means that 0.01 grams of the cheapest grade of pure kinam oil would be 700$. Which is simply put an impossible price. Using science however, things are different, because when we analyzed the smoke of various kinam and kyara wood samples, we created a table with all the constituents like a puzzle, and reconstituted it from scratch.
What we did, is we basically isolated chromones from various kinam and sinking grade woods in addition to capturing the smoke of green soil kinam wood to serve for the top note of the perfume- these choices were not random, but they were to basically build the list of the chemicals in the smoke from the scratch up to the point where we matched the smell of our final result to the list of chemicals in the smoke of a natural kinam wood.
Regarding the olfactory description, there is no need to write one, this is the smell of pure high grade kinam smoke, concentrated at 25%, which makes this a magnum opus for kinam and kyara aficionados.
I cannot say that this is a pure perfumery project. We had a huge help from our scientific team and the isolation and matching process could not have been done without them. Our role was matching the same ratios as those in the smoke as well as assessing the final result, and it is nothing short of incredible, it will really blow your mind away. We chose not to add any other notes to the kinam smoke note, as it would be an insult.
We only managed to produce 40 x 15 ml bottles and i got to tell you that this project cost an arm and a leg.
As we write this introduction of the perfume, our labels are being finalized and we are preparing for our 2023 European tour, therefore this will be shipped Mid- September when everything is complete.
40 x 15 ml bottles produced only - all Numbered.
This perfume will not be available for reviewers, only a few sample sizes will be available for people who supported the project.
The perfumes will all ship after the European tour starting from September, 15th, 2023, in the order in which the orders were received.